The Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999: A Rare Jewel of Japanese Craftsmanship Takes Flight

The Credor brand is as IYKYK as it gets, largely because its watches have, until recently, been available almost exclusively in Japan. I still remember when one of the first Credor pieces made its way to Singapore and was displayed in the iconic Marina Bay Sands’ Grand Seiko boutique. The watch was specially flown in unannounced for the viewing pleasure of a select few collectors, so if I hadn’t had a meeting with another watch retailer on that day, I wouldn’t have heard of its furtive arrival.

Credor—short for “Crêt d’Or”, French for “Golden Peak”—began in 1974 as a high-end Seiko line crafted in gold or platinum. By 1978, it was spun off into a standalone brand, distinguished by its three-pronged crest from 1980 onwards.

Over the decades, Credor has become known for its elegant skeletonised and ultra-thin calibres, and more recently, for celebrating Japanese métier d’art such as maki-e lacquering and raden inlaying. Credor’s unforgettable endeavors include 2006’s Spring Drive Sonnerie that became the world’s first chiming Spring Drive watch, 2011’s Spring Drive Minute Repeater, and 2014’s Eichi II, which was built and painted by hand by a tiny studio of artisans.

It’s within this spirit of diligent mastery that Credor unveiled its latest marvel last week: the 38.6mm Goldfeather Tourbillon GBCF999. While it may not be as flamboyant as 2016’s sapphire-set Fugaku Tourbillon, the Goldfeather is every bit as captivating. A flock of golden birds graces its dial, rendered using raden, where coloured mother-of-pearl is inlaid into lacquer, and kirikane, the delicate application of gold leaf cut into microscopic lines and shapes. These techniques are applied by master craftsman Isshu Tamura, who meticulously shaves down the black urushi lacquer surface afterwards for a flawless finish and luminous depth.

But that’s just the beginning. Every surface of the Goldfeather has been painstakingly engraved and decorated by hand. Its clean platinum case recalls the elegance of mid-century Japanese watchmaking. Flip the watch over, and you’ll find the Calibre 6850 nestled in an off-centre architecture, its bridges and plates adorned with elaborate hand-sculpting. A feather motif, picked out in fragments of green turban shell via raden, wraps around the movement.

At its heart lies a gold tourbillon bridge shaped like a bird in flight, encircled by a halo of gold powder. The openworked tourbillon offers a glimpse into the Calibre 6850, an evolution of the Calibre 6830 found in the Fugaku, now with an improved 60-hour power reserve, up from 37 hours. Assembled by master watchmaker Katsuo Saito, who received Japan’s Medal with Yellow Ribbon in 2023, the movement is press-fitted, without need for screws, into an 8.6mm platinum case and paired with a crocodile leather strap with a platinum double-fold clasp.

Limited to just 10 pieces and priced at €190,000, the Credor Goldfeather is not only rare but also historically significant. Tourbillons remain a rarity in Seiko’s universe, seen only in masterpieces like the Credor Fugaku and Grand Seiko Kodo, which makes this watch a feathered tribute to the pinnacle of Japanese horology.