The Best New Models From Geneva Watch Days 2025

Tradeshows are growing beyond Watches and Wonders and becoming an indispensable time for the industry to showcase its latest novelties.

This year’s sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days was the largest ever, expanding to a total of 66 exhibiting brands presenting over 150 new timepieces. Of course, it is difficult to distill down to our favorites, but we had a few.

Jean-Christophe Babin, President of the Geneva Watch Days Association and CEO of Bulgari Group along with Fabrizio Buonamassa, Executive Director of Product Design at Bulgari ensured the Roman Maison unveiled some particularly exceptional offerings at this year’s event. The first and arguably one of the best in show is the latest addition to the iconic Octo Finissimo line – a collaboration with the South Korean painter and sculptor Lee Ufan. Bulgari also added a blue marble dial variant to the Octo lineup alongside an all-new bronze version of the Bulgari Bulgari, putting its prowess in materials on full display.

Ulysse Nardin also took the opportunity to elevate new materials in its signature collection: the Freak. Here, a new dial composition lays the backdrop of the one-of-a-kind “Freak” display of time. The high-tech decorative art of Crystalium required complex development to translate to the dial of the watch. The core of the material is ruthenium, a platinum-group metal known for its strength and shine. Over several days, it undergoes a slow, controlled vapor-deposition crystallization process resulting in a beautiful and sparkling rose gold color.

Like Bulgari, other brands also leaned on collaborative efforts for their Geneva Watch Days offerings. Oris teamed up with Bamford for a new interpretation of its rugged Altimeter with a sleek all-black construction and bold neon pops of color. Zenith also embraced bright hues and the spirit of co-creation, partnering with the Swiss furniture manufacturer USM for four playful and retro-inspired editions of its popular Defy Chronograph with yellow, blue, green, and orange dial options.

TAG Heuer launched three new offerings at Geneva Watch Days, with two celebrating a milestone in watchmaking history. An astounding 350 years ago, the Dutch engineer Christiaan Huygens developed the modern oscillator. TAG Heuer used this anniversary as an opportunity to build on this work with new materials and a reworked design, resulting in the patented TH-Carbonspring oscillator, presented in two of the Maison’s most beloved collections: the Monaco and the Carrera. The brand also added another variant of the classic Carrera, this time with a unique moonphase display.

While these five brands released some of our top timepieces of the show, there are also some honorable mentions worth highlighting. Jacob Co. extended its opulent line of dragon-themed timepieces with two versions of the Astronomia Solar Dragon – one in all black and the other in a rainbow of bold colors. Speaking of color, MB&F added new colorways to one of its most beloved collections, the LM101, giving the line the brand’s EVO treatment in either salmon or green.

In addition, Moser presented two new iterations of its Pioneer Flying Hours: a sleek rose gold and black DLC titanium version with an aventurine dial and an effortless stainless steel version with a white fume dial giving way to gray. De Bethune also expanded two core lines with a stunning maroon version of its Starry Varius and a more accessibly sized 39mm version of its Kind of Blue Tourbillon, marking a first in terms of proportion for the collection.

Last but certainly not least, Laurent Ferrier continues its 15^th anniversary celebration by returning to its roots with a new reimagining of the Serie Atelier as a tribute to Mr. Ferrier’s very first creation, the Classic Tourbillon. The limited edition model is only produced in a numbered run of just five pieces, rendered in a gorgeous green colorway with a platinum case and an enamel dial.