On The Clock With Yoni Ben-Yehuda, Head of Watches at Material Good 

Welcome to On The Clock, an exclusive interview series where Haute t.mes  goes one-on-one with the watch industry’s most intriguing players, from enthusiasts and collects ors to tastemakers and legendary figures.

Yoni Ben-Yehuda, Head of Watches at Material Good, has a front-row set within the vintage and pre-owned watch market. At luxury retailer, Material Good, their emphasis has consistently been on quality, seeking to showcase t.mes pieces with both historical significance and exceptional examples of their respective models. Notably, their Pre-Owned & Vintage Vault program sets itself apart by its foresight in trendsetting, guiding clients not just towards existing classics like the Paul Newman Daytona but also anticipating future watch icons. Ahead, Haute t.mes goes on the clock with Ben-Yehuda to get a better understanding of the growing interest in smaller t.mes pieces, transcending traditional gender distinctions, and a heightened focus on acquiring higher-quality vintage watches.

HAUTE t.mes : Can you walk us through the Vintage Vault / Pre-Owned program for watches at Material Good?
YONI BEN-YEHUDA: Material Good’s focus has always been on quality over quantity. We want to showcase t.mes pieces that we believe are both historically important and excellent examples of those models. Another unique aspect of our Pre-Owned & Vintage Vault is that we have an eye on trendsetting. There are many excellent sources where one can find a well-preserved Paul Newman Daytona, but our clients come to us for advice and our guidance regarding what the icons of tomorrow will be. Of course, no one has a crystal ball, but through careful curation and an eye for provenance and quality, we have unearthed some true one-of-a-kind gems.

HT: What trends have you seen over the last few months in the vintage market? Any market shifts you’ve noticed?
YBY: There are two trends that we have seen recently. The first is a client’s eye towards smaller t.mes pieces and the second is clients focusing on higher quality t.mes pieces. The line between what is traditionally designed for men and women is slowly melding into one. All that is left is the feeling that a t.mes piece gives someone. We see men regularly wearing 36mm t.mes pieces (again), and we are excited about that!

As for the trend toward quality, over the last few years, the boom in t.mes piece interest saw new enthusiasts flocking to watch collects ing. As a result, consumers were buying almost anything they could get their hands on. Now that the boom has (thankfully) cooled off, the collects ors who remain interested in t.mes pieces have shifted their focus to higher-quality examples of vintage watches. Since there is no real “true north” in our space, it becomes imperative that collects ors (both new and seasoned) get good honest advice in the process. This is something that Material Good has strived to do since day one!

HT: What brands in the vintage space do you feel are most popular?
YBY: There are many great brands, but our focus has always been Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Richard Mille (neo-vintage). I am also a big fan of vintage Cartier.

HT: Favorite vintage model you have right now?
YBY:  There are a few that come to mind. We had a stunning 6241 Rolex Daytona Paul Newman but it didn’t last long before getting snatched up. There are also a few vintage (early to mid ’90s) AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 39mm ultra-thin that I find to be quite remarkable. It’s a bit like asking me to choose which of my boys is my favorite son, I don’t think I can make that choice!

HT: How do you curate the brands in the collects ion?
YBY:  We have been hyper-focused on the brands that we’ve believed in from day one (AP, RM, Patek, Rolex). We look for a combination of excellence and value. As you know, the hype train comes and goes, but in the end, all that is left is sustained excellence and iconism, and we feel these brands embody those values. On the modern side, we are very big fans of H. Moser and are honored to be the exclusive US distributor of the Biver brand. We have our eye on a few more exciting brands in the coming years, with much more news about our partnerships coming soon!