A few weeks ago, during LVMH Watch Week in New York, I was ushered into Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Director of Watchmaking Creation (and a creative sketching genius, if I may add), for what I thought was to speak about Bvlgari’s new movement, but I was wrong. After swearing to secrecy, Stigliani slowly pulled back the lid of a box, revealing the second-ever timepiece made in collaboration with MBF. To say I was stunned is an understatement. Bvlgari and MBF have once again collaborated to reinterpret one of horology’s most iconic symbols—the serpent—with the new Bvlgari x MBF Serpenti.
Bvlgari and MBF have once again collaborated to reinterpret the serpent with the new Bvlgari x MBF Serpenti.
Bvlgari and MBF have once again collaborated to reinterpret one of horology’s most iconic symbols: the serpent. This time, they introduce the Bvlgari x MBF Serpenti, a watch that not only slithers into the realm of high art but also challenges the conventions of traditional watch design. The partnership between Bvlgari, established in 1884, and MBF, the visionary brand of Maximilian Büsser since 2005, has been a beacon of innovation in watchmaking. Their first joint venture in 2021 with the MBF x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra set a high bar, merging Bvlgari’s colorful gemstone aesthetics with MBF’s kinetic sculptures for the wrist. Now, with the Serpenti, they delve deeper, bringing the snake to mechanical life in a way that’s both breathtaking and technically complex.
The design process for the Serpenti was anything but straightforward. Stigliani describes the pleasure and pain of designing such an intricate piece. “This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce. The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MBF’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”
The watch’s case is an ode to complexity, with curves reminiscent of automotive design, crafted from materials like grade 5 titanium, 18K rose gold, and black PVD-coated stainless steel. Each version features distinct colored hour and minute domes: blue for titanium, green for gold, and red for steel, limited to 33 pieces each, making them highly collectible. The watch case, a true engineering marvel, required hundreds of sketches and numerous 3D-printed models to perfect. It’s not just about aesthetics; the case’s design had to accommodate five sapphire crystals, including those for the snake’s eyes, all treated with anti-reflective coating for clarity and visibility, challenging the norms of watch manufacturing.
Inside this serpentine case lies an equally ambitious movement. MBF’s in-house manual-winding caliber features a bespoke flying 14mm balance wheel, a nod to traditional watchmaking with a modern twist. The time is displayed on rotating aluminum domes – the left for hours, making a full rotation every 12 hours, and the right for minutes, every 60 minutes. This movement not only displays time but does so with the elegance of a serpent’s gaze, thanks to the Super-LumiNova coating that makes the eyes luminescent in the dark.
The power reserve, visible through the case back, offers a 45-hour autonomy, showcasing the movement’s 310 components, all hand-finished, a testament to MBF’s commitment to artisanal craftsmanship.
The influence of automotive design isn’t just skin deep. The Serpenti’s case and its “stepped” sapphire crystal evoke the sleek lines of sports cars, while the crowns resemble wheels. Even the movement includes elements reminiscent of car engines, integrating the hexagonal scale motif from previous Serpenti designs. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari Group, emphasizes the project’s uniqueness, celebrating the fusion of two distinct yet complementary horological DNAs.
The Bvlgari x MBF Serpenti is now ready to charm watch enthusiasts, offering a glimpse into the future of luxury watchmaking where tradition meets the avant-garde in the most captivating manner.
