We have been without the inimitable Mr. Gérald Genta for over a decade, and in that absence, his eponymous brand has taken a measured, vintage-inflected approach to honoring his legacy under new ownership. At LVMH Watch Week 2026 in Milan, the maison unveiled a pair of 38mm Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only watches—an understated sequel to the 40mm Gérald Genta Minute Repeater introduced in September 2025—both of which will arrive at boutiques imminently.
Together with the Gérald Genta Oursin and Minute Repeater, a pair of gold time-only gold novelties pay tribute to the late Mr Genta.
Priced at CHF 25,000, the Geneva Time Only Marrone and Grafite are markedly more accessible than the CHF 320,000 Minute Repeater, widening the circle of collectors able to engage with the revived brand. Anticipation for this renaissance has been simmering for years, ever since LVMH assumed ownership of the Bulgari-controlled Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta names as part of its acquisition of the Italian watch and jewelry house in 2011.
Judging from the healthy demand in the secondary market for memorable Genta designs like his octagonal and Mickey Mouse watches, not to mention the esteem that Genta-designed icons like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur SL enjoy, it’s safe to say that the late Genta’s name continues to be highly regarded in horology.
The long-awaited revival of his brand formally began in 2023 with the launch of the feminine Oursin collection, setting the tone for a careful and considered return.
Retro-Inspired Elegance
The design of the Geneva collection draws from Gérald Genta’s own aesthetic vocabulary, under the guidance of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s Artistic Director, Matthieu Hegi. The Geneva Time Only Marrone is rendered in rose gold, paired with a warm orange, grained gradient dial crafted from brass. Its counterpart, the Geneva Time Only Grafite, opts for a white gold case and a silver-toned dial finished in the same textured style. Besides being modestly sized, I love that these slender watches are only 8.15mm thick.
Subtle yet thoughtful details elevate both watches: distinctive lugs, a stepped case framing a vintage-inspired minute track, and calfskin leather straps that harmonize seamlessly with the dials. Turning the watches over reveals the automatic caliber GG-005P through a transparent caseback. Beating at 4Hz with a 50-hour power reserve and new fan-style rotor, the movement is derived from the dependable Zenith Elite caliber—an architecture that also underpins other Gérald Genta models, as well as the Zenith Defy Revival A3643 and the Zenith Skyline 36 unveiled at the same fair.
